Important Information:
Sexing- As juveniles, there is little difference between male and female leos. Most can be sexed properly at the 5-9 month age. Males will have Hemipenial Bulges and Pre-Anal Pores at the base of the tail. Though females do have the Pre-Anal Pores, they are not all that visible compared to a male’s pores. Females won’t have the Hemipenial Bulges either, although hey might have little bumps, but they don’t stand out as much as the male’s bumps.
Substrate-I personally have used shelf liner, paper towel, tiles and repti-carpet as substrates. Out of those, I prefer ceramic tiles or shelf liner for adults and hatchlings, and paper towels for sick Leos. For adults you can use a very fine grain play sand if you wished. There is still the risk of impaction (life's full of risks), so be very cautious when using sand.
Heating & Humidity- Leos need a heat gradient in the cage, meaning a warm and cool side. Leos do not need a daylight basking spot, and do not use heat rocks of any type. The warm side of the cage should range from 90-95, the cool side from 79-85. You can achieve this using heat lamps, heat tape, under tank heaters or a combination to achieve proper temps, however under tank heaters are highly recommended. Temperatures should be measured by a digital thermometer/temperature gun at ground level consistently. Stick on or non-digital thermometers are unreliable, and have been shown in some cases to be as much as 15-20 degrees low from personal experience.
Humidity should be low, 35-50%. A humid hide should be provided at all times, which can simply be made by using a Tupperware container filled with moist bed-a-beast or paper towel with a hole cut in the side. Mist the substrate in the humid hide daily if needed, keeping it moist. Put the humid hide on/near the warm side of the tank to produce the humidity.
Cages- 1 Leo can live it’s entire life in a 10 gallon aquarium. I personally prefer a bigger cage (at least a 15 gallon for 1, a minimum 20 long for a pair) if using glass aquariums. You can also used large sweater box containers with holes drilled in the lids/sides for ventilation for adults and juveniles. Rack systems are also very good if keeping multiple leos.
In all juvi/adult cages, there should be a humid hide, 2 regular hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool), a dish of fresh water, a small dish of plain calcium powder, and a feeding dish for each Leo if using something besides crickets. Hides can be very simple (paper towel or toilet paper rolls), or very expensive, depending on the owner's taste.
Keep Leos of similar size together only, as adults can/will eat or nip at babies, or bully them so that they cannot have food. Keep hatchlings separate until at least a few months old so that they can eat and grow properly. Leos are solitary animals, and do not need a mate or friend. Never house two males together.
Diet- Leos are strictly carnivorous animals, and prefer live prey. Crickets, mealworms (ocassionally), phonixworms, silkworms, and roaches are all good staple diets. For adults, you can also use super worms (not super mealworms). Waxworms and butterworms can be offered occasionally as a treat, waxworms are not recommended more than 3 a week, as wax worms can cause fatty liver disease if fed as a staple.
For babies and juveniles, you should dust the food every day with a plain, no phosphorus calcium powder. For adults, dusting can be done every other feeding. Twice a week (for adults and babies), substitute with a calcium powder with D3 for dusting. Do not use the D3 powder for every dusting, as Leos can not absorb that much D3.
Overview- Leopard geckos are great starter lizards, and are good around children. They are relatively easy and cheap to set up compared to other reptiles, and the maintenance is simple if kept up. Remember that Leos are nocturnal animals, and should be treated as such when handling, feeding or cleaning so as not to stress them out.
When considering a Leo, remember that their lifespan is the same, if not higher, than a dog or cat, so it is a huge investment of both time and money. Most Leos can live 10-20 years if kept properly. Be sure that you and your family are ready for the responsibility and care for a long time, just as you would when thinking of buying a puppy or kitten.
Make sure to pick a healthy looking gecko, and it is recommended to purchase a Leo from a reputable breeder over a pet store chain. Healthy Leos have bright eyes, tails are about as thick (or thicker) than their necks, active and preferably are not kept on sand before purchasing. Their legs and jaws will be solid, and do not look mushy or curved strangely. Remember that if purchasing from a pet store, that the leos may seem less active because they are nocturnal.
Make sure to have your living area set up for your Leo for about a week before purchasing, experimenting and settling temperature gradients before putting the Leo in the tank. Once purchasing the Leo, it may not eat for several days to a week because of stress. Also, do not try to handle the Leo at all for at least a week when bringing it to the new home.
Make sure to have a good herp vet in the area before considering a Leo (or any reptile). Within the first week, try to have a fresh fecal sample tested for parasites and bacteria (called an acid fast stain), and make sure all is clear before introducing a new Leo to a previous pet.
There are many different opinions on substrates, diets, heating, caging, and almost all other aspects of keeping a Leo. Read many care sheets and decide for yourself what the best care is from those sheets. Also, talk to reputable breeders, and ask a lot of questions. Research and constant education are the best tools you will have to provide your Leo with a long, healthy, happy lifestyle!
Substrate-I personally have used shelf liner, paper towel, tiles and repti-carpet as substrates. Out of those, I prefer ceramic tiles or shelf liner for adults and hatchlings, and paper towels for sick Leos. For adults you can use a very fine grain play sand if you wished. There is still the risk of impaction (life's full of risks), so be very cautious when using sand.
Heating & Humidity- Leos need a heat gradient in the cage, meaning a warm and cool side. Leos do not need a daylight basking spot, and do not use heat rocks of any type. The warm side of the cage should range from 90-95, the cool side from 79-85. You can achieve this using heat lamps, heat tape, under tank heaters or a combination to achieve proper temps, however under tank heaters are highly recommended. Temperatures should be measured by a digital thermometer/temperature gun at ground level consistently. Stick on or non-digital thermometers are unreliable, and have been shown in some cases to be as much as 15-20 degrees low from personal experience.
Humidity should be low, 35-50%. A humid hide should be provided at all times, which can simply be made by using a Tupperware container filled with moist bed-a-beast or paper towel with a hole cut in the side. Mist the substrate in the humid hide daily if needed, keeping it moist. Put the humid hide on/near the warm side of the tank to produce the humidity.
Cages- 1 Leo can live it’s entire life in a 10 gallon aquarium. I personally prefer a bigger cage (at least a 15 gallon for 1, a minimum 20 long for a pair) if using glass aquariums. You can also used large sweater box containers with holes drilled in the lids/sides for ventilation for adults and juveniles. Rack systems are also very good if keeping multiple leos.
In all juvi/adult cages, there should be a humid hide, 2 regular hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool), a dish of fresh water, a small dish of plain calcium powder, and a feeding dish for each Leo if using something besides crickets. Hides can be very simple (paper towel or toilet paper rolls), or very expensive, depending on the owner's taste.
Keep Leos of similar size together only, as adults can/will eat or nip at babies, or bully them so that they cannot have food. Keep hatchlings separate until at least a few months old so that they can eat and grow properly. Leos are solitary animals, and do not need a mate or friend. Never house two males together.
Diet- Leos are strictly carnivorous animals, and prefer live prey. Crickets, mealworms (ocassionally), phonixworms, silkworms, and roaches are all good staple diets. For adults, you can also use super worms (not super mealworms). Waxworms and butterworms can be offered occasionally as a treat, waxworms are not recommended more than 3 a week, as wax worms can cause fatty liver disease if fed as a staple.
For babies and juveniles, you should dust the food every day with a plain, no phosphorus calcium powder. For adults, dusting can be done every other feeding. Twice a week (for adults and babies), substitute with a calcium powder with D3 for dusting. Do not use the D3 powder for every dusting, as Leos can not absorb that much D3.
Overview- Leopard geckos are great starter lizards, and are good around children. They are relatively easy and cheap to set up compared to other reptiles, and the maintenance is simple if kept up. Remember that Leos are nocturnal animals, and should be treated as such when handling, feeding or cleaning so as not to stress them out.
When considering a Leo, remember that their lifespan is the same, if not higher, than a dog or cat, so it is a huge investment of both time and money. Most Leos can live 10-20 years if kept properly. Be sure that you and your family are ready for the responsibility and care for a long time, just as you would when thinking of buying a puppy or kitten.
Make sure to pick a healthy looking gecko, and it is recommended to purchase a Leo from a reputable breeder over a pet store chain. Healthy Leos have bright eyes, tails are about as thick (or thicker) than their necks, active and preferably are not kept on sand before purchasing. Their legs and jaws will be solid, and do not look mushy or curved strangely. Remember that if purchasing from a pet store, that the leos may seem less active because they are nocturnal.
Make sure to have your living area set up for your Leo for about a week before purchasing, experimenting and settling temperature gradients before putting the Leo in the tank. Once purchasing the Leo, it may not eat for several days to a week because of stress. Also, do not try to handle the Leo at all for at least a week when bringing it to the new home.
Make sure to have a good herp vet in the area before considering a Leo (or any reptile). Within the first week, try to have a fresh fecal sample tested for parasites and bacteria (called an acid fast stain), and make sure all is clear before introducing a new Leo to a previous pet.
There are many different opinions on substrates, diets, heating, caging, and almost all other aspects of keeping a Leo. Read many care sheets and decide for yourself what the best care is from those sheets. Also, talk to reputable breeders, and ask a lot of questions. Research and constant education are the best tools you will have to provide your Leo with a long, healthy, happy lifestyle!
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Site Owned & Maintained By: Allee Toler | (619) 961-9052 | atozgeckos@yahoo.com | Sunday-Saturday 10am-10pm PST
Site Owned & Maintained By: Allee Toler | (619) 961-9052 | atozgeckos@yahoo.com | Sunday-Saturday 10am-10pm PST
